Installing the Canfield Industries 5.0 bell housing to 2.3 block adapter plate.
Unpacking and inspection:

I purchased the plate from the website here for $185.00

The adapter plate comes will all hardware to attach the adapter plate to the 2.3 block and the bell housing to the adapter plate.

Contents do not include SAE starter bolts used on the 5.0 bell housing, the two bottom bolts that attach the bell housing front plate to bell housing.

You will also need to purchase a 5.0 clutch cable.

Of course you will need the E6 5.0 bell housing, 5.0 clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.  A 5.0 flywheel will need to be purchased, I purchased the Spec flywheel from Stinger Performance, see below.

 

Adapter plate differences:

Note, this adapter plate on top is the Stinger Performance adapter plate.  The Canfield Industries plate in on the bottom in these next 5 pictures.


CNC tapped 7/16" bolts for 5.0 bell housing and correct 90° metric countersink used for flat head cap screws



Additional material all the way around the plate to improve strength. 



Correct clearance for any starter you choose to run on with the 5.0 bell housing.  No grinding required



Tighter tolerance in machined groove to clear cylinder head.



 

Installing the plate:


Here is the stock 2.3 bell housing mounted to engine - reference photo.
 

Remove the 2.3 bell housing and clean:


I cleaned the back of the block with a can of brake cleaner.  It is also a good idea to install a new rear main seal and pilot bearing while everything is apart.
 

Alignment pin removal and replacement:


The adapter will require a shorter dowel pins.  I removed the longer dowel pin (left) with vice grips.


On the left the old pin, on the right the new shorter pin.


 

Test fit and install adapter plate:


Install plate on new dowel pins and start installing bolts.


Install bolts. I recommend purchasing a 6mm hex socket to properly torque plate to 28-38 Lb-Ft  I used loctite blue on the upper 4 bolts that thread into block and torqued.  The bottom 4 bolt have lock nuts, no loctite, just torque.


Plenty of room for the starter.
 

Install flywheel:


I purchased the Spec aluminum flywheel SF05A-2 from Stinger Performance. Pictured on the right is the stock 2.3 iron flywheel.


I also chose the Ford Motorsport King Cobra clutch kit.  Pictured on the right is the Centerforce dual friction clutch.

The combined weigh of the iron 2.3 flywheel, centerforce dual friction clutch and flywheel is 30#

The combined weight of the Spec aluminum flywheel, Motorsport King Cobra clutch and flywheel is 26.5#


Make sure to install the bell housing front plate on the alignment pins.


Install flywheel and torque bolts.  I choose 75-85 Lb-Ft of torque for this application.
 

Install clutch and pressure plate:


Install clutch disc and flywheel.  Use the supplied Spec flywheel bolts. Torque pressure plate to flywheel spec is 12-20 Lb-Ft.
 

Install bell housing:


The kit comes with the proper length bolts for the bell housing.  The upper left bolt is just under 1" and the upper right bolt is 1.25"


Test fit the bell housing to make sure everything is clear and the plate rests flat on the adapter.


Install clutch release arm with throw out bearing in bell housing, install bolts and torque to 38-55 Lb-Ft.
 

Summary:

I had to purchase a 5.0 clutch cable and install it under the dash. 

Make sure you have the starter bolts for the 5.0 bell housing, they are SAE, not Metric.

You will also need the two bolts that bolt the bell housing to front cover on the bottom of the bell.

I actually reused the 2.3 starter.  It bolts in the 5.0 bell housing and works just fine.

 

Misc Pictures:

 

I do not understand why Ford made the 2.3 head larger than the block. A solution for the racer who doesn't want the groove in the top of the adapter plate is to machine the head.  Here are some pictures of my Esslinger Aluminum D-port head machined. (click on pictures to enlarge)
We cut the head .020" shorter than the block to make sure there is no plate bind against the head.  The rounded sides still overhang the block but will allow for full engagement of the top 5.0 bell housing bolts. There is still more than 0.150" of wall material on the back of the head around the water jacket.

Canfield Industries now stocks adapter plates with no groove cut in the top of the adapter. Their website will be updated shortly, but if you need to order one with no top groove, either call them and let them know payment is on the way, or they can take credit card over the phone.

Although probably cost prohibitive because of shipping, Canfield Industries can also CNC machine your head to accept the no groove adapter plate.  Iron heads are also able to be machined.