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Here is the old write up on the subject.
This is a ever changing write up, so as time passes by
new comments/instructions will be added.
The
advance is controlled by the EEC4 by means of the sensor input, The
DIS module sets the base timing (10 advance) SPOUT disconnected it's
like magic. Hence there is no base timing adjustments.
First
of all you need the following parts from a DIS 8 plug head 4 cylinder
91-93 Mustang or 89-93 Ranger. Yet the setup on the 91-93 Mustang is
the best.
Crank
pulley assembly has the hall effect rotor in the back of it. you will
need a puller to remove it properly with out damage, they are in very
tight.Then again some come out by hand.
Front
engine cover. This is the one that holds the front crank seal It has a
special shape to fit around the crank trigger bracket.
Crank
trigger bracket/fasteners and sensor assembly to include wiring and
connectors.
DIS
module and wiring harness.
1 Coil
pack or 2 coil packs and brackets depending if you are running a 4
plug or 8 plug head. Also plug wires.
Dummy
Distributor plug. This is needed in order to drive the oil pump after
the distributor is removed.
Water
pump pulley and alternator (serpentine).
If you
are not going to use the DPDIS motor intake (4 plug head) you will
need a heat sink to install the DIS module so to dissipate the heat
and don't forget to put some dielectric grease in between the back of
the DIS module and the heat sink. Also the DIS module requires a good
ground for it to work properly.
Crank
trigger bracket installation.
This is
the hardest thing to do because it requires that two holes be drill
and tap on the from of the stock turbo block also is best to do it
with the engine out of the car and oil pan removed.
You
will need to make a template of the holes for the installation of the
crank trigger this is done by copying the location of the holes on a
DIS block. You can use the lower passenger side front cover bolt holes
on the DIS block as a reference since they are in the same location as
on the turbo block. I used a piece of Plexiglas to make the template,
I trim it so it would lay flat on the front of the DIS block and with
a drill I made the holes on the piece of Plexiglas. Then I lay it on
the front of the turbo block and center punch mark the spots to be
drill for the crank trigger bracket.
NOTICE:
The #1 main bearing cavity runs very close to where the holes for the
bracket go. So you have to be very careful when drilling or you will
ruin a good block,you may want to let a machine shop handle it. I took
a chance and did it my self with a hand drill. Once the crank trigger
bracket is installed there is a air gap that has to be set just right
for the sensor to work properly, from my experience as long as the
sensor does not rub against the hall effect rotor there is no problem
and it will work properly.
Also
when installing the DIS block front cover it will be needed to remove
the gasket from the front part of the oil pan, you will need to
use sealer because the gasket is going to be to thick for it to fit
properly or use a the oil pan from the DIS block.
DIS and
EEC-IV wiring.
1- Unwrap the DIS wire harness all
the way to the "Y" at the DIS module(do not unwrap the aluminum foil
wrap wires).
2- Remove 2 wires from the White
connector Black(Shield ground) and Blue/Orange stripe(CID not used).
3- Remove 1 wire from the Brown
connector Tan/Yellow stripe(IDM).
4- Cut Red/Green stripe wire from
multi splice, remove White and Brown connector with the MAF sensor
connector/wires.
5- Remove IAC wires from Gray
connector, at this point you should have just the DIS specific wires
only.
The following is a break down of the
wire color as per function and pin location on the DIS module
connectors.
Top connector(Black) wires 1 through
6.
1- Red/Green stripe start/run power.
2- Blue/Orange stripe CID (output to
turbo EEC-IV not used).
3- Gray/Orange stripe PIP.
4- Blue PIP (Crank sensor input).
5- Pink Spout.
6- Blue/Yellow stripe DPI (to
ground).
Bottom connector(Gray) wires 7
through 12.
7- Orange/Red stripe IGN Ground.
8- Tan/Blue stripe Coil.
9- Tan/Green stripe Coil.
10- Tan/Orange stripe Coil.
11- Tan/Red stripe Coil.
12- Tan/Yellow stripe IDM (TACH).
You may want to use the DIS wire
harness Gray connector that has most of the wires necessary for the
connection or delete it and just solder strait to the wires from the
Thick film ignition connector.
Notice the power multi splice it is
a lot simpler to cut one wire to the coils off and splice it to the
other, also the same can be done to the wires that feed the Crank
trigger sensor and the DIS module. I figure this would be a call on
the installer. I prefer to feed power to the coils directly from the
battery + post by using a fuel pump relay which is good up to 30
amp.
Case ground(Chassis) is achieved by
the mounting holes on the DIS module on the left side of the module
holding it with the black connector up while facing you. Note this
ground has to be good other wise the DIS module will not work
properly it also will get extremely HOT.
Pin orientation is marked on the DIS
module just pull the connectors out and you will see the markings 1
and 6 for the top connector and 7 and 12 for the bottom connector.
This is
actually very simple once the DIS module wires are identified = SPOUT,
IDM, PIP, DPI, CID, IGN GND, IGN PWR and on the EEC4 thick film
connector = SPOUT, IDM, PIP, IGN GRN, IGNPWR START, IGNPWR RUN. After
this is done splice the wires from the DIS connector to their
respective equal on the thick film connector. NOTICE; the CID wire
from the DIS going to the EEC4 is not used since the EEC4 does not
have this feature, but the DIS module needs it to calculate timing.
The DPI wire from the DIS goes to ground. I prefer to use a source of
power to the DIS that is on both when starting and running instead of
the thick film ignitions power feed wires. I used the power feed wire
that would normally feed the stock coil.
You
will be able to trim the DIS wiring harness of some unnecessary length
of wire once you figure the location you will install it.
The DIS
module has to sense it is grounding two coil packs to produce the IDM
(tach) signal. If you are going to run a single coil pack on a 4 plug
head then splice the wires from the unused coil pack connector to the
coil pack that is going to fire the plugs. This will fool the DIS
module in to thinking it is running two coil packs.
The following are base timing
adjustments that need to be done when using the DPDIS 8 plug setup in
order to achieve better performance and the capability of running
higher boost level that other wise would not be possible due to the
DPDIS head design. The design of the head does not require as much
timing advance as the turbo EEC-IV put out so because of the mismatch
of the newer head with the older turbo computer (LA3) the following
steps have to be taken.
1st since there is no mechanical
adjustment of the base timing in the DIS setup as there is with the
earlier distributor setup found in all turbo 2.3L cars (this means
turning the distributor). I figured that by trimming metal (1/16 =
2deg) from the leading edge PIP tabs of the rotor that trips the crank
trigger sensor (keep in mind the rotor turns clockwise as you stand in
front of the engine) the base timing could be retarded from 10deg
advance to 4deg advance. This setting helps limit total timing advance
and in turn helps control detonation at boost.
2nd the OCTANE switch feature of the
87-88 TC LA3 computer has to be set at regular fuel so to limit total
timing advance and controlling detonation even further.
I have been able to run 20psi boost
spikes and 15 to 18psi boost continuos boost with out detonation
while using a IC in both my 85 SVO and Pinto SW 89-93 DPDIS equiped
cars while using a Saab APC boost controller. G-Tech test runs have
shown a gain of 20hp in other words from 210hp to 230hp. Special
thanks to Joe Morgan and Marcello Canitano with out their help the
above timing adjustment would not have been possible.
Tachometer problems (remember) the DIS system tach pulse to the
tachometer is of 12 volts so if the tachometer has a high resistor in
the tach circuit it will not work. The fix is to add a 1K OHM resistor
in parallel to the first resistor inside the tachometer tach signal
circuit or solder in a wire so to bypass the resistor. Yet some cars
like the Merkurs will have no problems with tach signal. Then there is
the 87-88 TC this cars will need a diode installed in the tach power
feed circuit at the fuse box to filter out the DIS signal so it will
not cause problems with erroneous reading with the tachometer.
The use
of a efficient front mounted IC and engine coolant temperature control
(around 180*F) is of the upmost importance in this setup in order to
achieve high boost levels.
I think
I got it all. If any other questions feel free to ask.
The
following write up I copied from a post sent by pritch82 <pritch82@yahoo.com>
I've been running this for some time now,
waiting for the pictures to
be developed. Probably close to 3,000 miles on it now. Thanks to everyone over the years for the chats that provided the inspiration to try it. http://home.earthlink.net/~touring23/DIStriggerDWG.jpg Here's how I did it: 1. Remove crank trigger (duh). 2. Weld the 2 trigger rings together, taking care not to weld to the cast iron hub nor the rivets. Just a dab or two should do as the rings aren't under any load. 3. Etch/engrave an alignment index mark on both the cast iron hub and the outer PIP ring (see photo). It doesn't matter where. Once the rings are moved this will be the only means of getting back to "zero" so be precise. I ALSO notched mine in a second spot just as a backup. 4. Drill out the two rivets. 5. This was the tough part. Separate the rings from the hub. I had to use a variety of tools and still managed to bend the rings into a taco shape. This, obviously, was not good. Leading to step 6. 6. Restore/flatten/round the rings. The outer ring should have a nominal outer diameter of 3.660 inches by my measurements. 7. Slot the rivet holes of the rings using a drill and dremel. I went ~0.25" either side, not particularly precise, enough for ~8* advance or retard. 8. Next to the alignment index on the outer ring, engrave additional timing marks. The circumference is 3.660"xpi=11.50", divide by 360* to get one degree of timing is 0.032". I couldn't be that precise, so I marked mine for two-degree increments (=0.064"). See photo. 9. Drill and tap the hub at the rivet holes for retaining screws. I chose M5x10mm fine thread screws, and was lucky enough to find a short panhead allen-key style that won't hit the crank sensor. 10. Dress the hub and the ring ID with emory paper to make adjustment easier. 11. Bolt the ring to the hub, obviously with attention to the timing marks. 12. Reinstall trigger assembly on engine, but not the serpentine pulley&belt. 13. Rotate the crank by wrench, checking for adequate clearance between the crank pickup and the crank sensor. My shop manual says the air gap should be 0.018"-0.039". Adjust as necessary. 14. When you're satisfied that there are no interference problems with the crank sensor, go ahead and reinstall the serpentine pulley ad nauseum. 15. Remove SPOUT connector and confirm base timing. 16. Reinstall SPOUT connector. ---------- The server is going to "time out" on me so I had better hit send now.
Jaime
88 TC.
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